The appropriate use of the ’D’-s, or the secret of the healthy eyelashes
Lots of lash stylist still wonder to this day, that what thickness of lashes should be chosen at each D number. This is not coincidential, since there are a lot of contradictory information, which can confuse people easily. I personally believe that the goal is to work together with my customers in the long run. Which for me means that if I use lashes with the appropriate thickness, then the natural lash stock will not be destroyed, in fact, it will even be able to strenghten.
0.15, 0.12, 0.07, 0.05… Diameter. What is it exactly..? Width! This number shows the thickness of the chosen lashes.
Logically this means that the thinner the lash is, the easier it will be, and the more can be used on a natural lash.
A lot depends on our customers aptitude. If the lash stock of our customer is weaker and thinner, then I will make the set from thinner lash extensions. This is possible the other way around also. If the lashes of the customer are stronger than average, then we can sneak some thicker lashes into the set.
It is very important to assess that in which growing phase and exactly how long the natural lashes are. There can be differences within each sets here. If we are aiming for a maximum fullness, then it is worth to build on every single natural lash. However you should pay attention not to overburden the baby lashes, so they can continue to grow comfortably. In these cases I put the thinnest, smallest lashes per one lash on, regardless of the volume number.
Taking the things mentioned above into account, I suggest the following thicknesses to the different ’D’-s:
- I suggest 0.15 and 0.12 thick lashes for 1D
- for building 2D I rather prefer the 0.07 thick lashes
- I use 0.07 thick lashes for 3D-4D as well
- I prefer 0.05 thickness for 5D-6D
- for 7D-8D it is not worth to work with lashes that are thicker than 0.04
author: Dia Kállai, lash stylist, Long Lashes brand ambassador